Nahuel Huapi-fied

Monte Tronador, from about 40 miles

Well, Nahuel Huapi was the cat´s pajamas. A tremendous hit. Jagged peaks, extremely rugged landscape, crystal clear rivers, and the glacier studded Monte Tronador that absolutely dominates the ultrablue horizon. Only a $1 bus ride from Bariloche, too. It was awesome! The one caveat, I have to add, is that their trails are absolutely horrific. I pray that nobody from IMBA ever comes down here, because the evident lack of basic trailbuilding knowledge would be enough to kill a real traibuilder. When I looked at the trails, I was like the Indian from that old littering commercial with the tear rolling down his face...


(Family disclaimer - before you read the next section, be aware that I took all the necessary safety precautions: I had a detailed map, I alerted the National Park office of my route and time of return, and I stayed on well marked trails. I was very safe about this.)

I was really excited about this trip, also, because I did something I never thought I would have the guts to do: that is, complete a several day trek completely on my own. I thought about it beforehand, and I really wanted to do this. I am a pretty confident, self assured, and confident person, but for some reason, doing a multinight backpacking trip has been something on my short list of ¨Things I am Afraid to Do¨. And not even for realistic fears, or a feeling of personal inability. I really thought I wouldn´t do it be able to do it out of good, ole fashion, childish somethingisundermybed! fear. Well, I did it. 4 days, 3 nights of complete solitude. And with the exception of some errant cows and some noisy birds in the middle of the night, it turns out there really is nothing to be afraid of. This may not sound like a huge achievement, or may seem kind of corny, but I think those of you out there who have gone on a significant backpacking trip will appreciate my feeling of accomplishment right now, and I am really glad I did it. I am glad to be back now, though! Running water is a freakin´ miracle!

(way off in the distance in the top middle of this pic is the peak they call ¨Cerro Cathedral¨.
It´s hard to tell here, but it is ridiculously high and very impressive)

Tomorrow, 9 am, I am off to San Martín de los Andes. Since I don´t have an alarm clock, I am going to have to drink a liter of water around midnight. Actually, make that beer.

Let´s quote it up here:

¨I want to stay as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all kinds of things you can´t see from the center. Big undreamed of things - the people on the edge see them first.¨ Kurt Vonnegut, ¨Player Piano¨